Holiday Pumpernickel
So it's that time of year, everyone is thinking "holidays" - what to eat, where to go. As head baker of Portland's Grand Central Bakery, when I think "holidays" I think "Pumpernickel!" It has become one of our main holiday breads. For the last 2-3 years when we're debating what holiday breads to make, the "Pump" (my nickname for it) comes up and we always come around to making it.
Pretty Pumpernickel!
It is funny that a loaf steeped in such irreverent history has become a symbol of the season. The name "Pumpernickel" translates from the new High German synonym for flatulence, "pumpen". "Nickel" comes from Nicholas who was often used to describe the devil or goblin - "old nick" which was a common name for Satan. You may use your imaginations for all the other humorous translations of "Pumpernickel"! The first written mention of this "black bread" was in the Westphalia region of Germany in the early 1400's.
In general, Pumpernickel was made using a combination of coarse and fine rye flours and naturally leavened using a sour culture. What defined this bread was its long slow bake time, up to 24 hrs at 250 degrees, giving the Pumpernickel its characteristic dark color. Of course, history aside, the reason we bring back Pumpernickel each year is that it just begs to be on your holiday table, thinly sliced with a good strong cheese, perhaps some smoked fish. This loaf is the queen of the party platter!
Each year I try to make our Pumpernickel the best possible, so this holiday season I have tweaked the recipe to make it heartier, for all the whole grain fans out there. I have also taken the commercial yeast out, so it is naturally leavened and then taken the oil out to make it "lighter"! While this is still an American version of Pumpernickel, it is as close to its roots we can get it and still fit it into the production schedule. We use a toasted bread soaker; this adds flavor and complexity along with some good color. We also do a hot rye flour soaker to hydrate the rye flour and to start enzyme activity necessary for fermentation.
This year we're utilizing a combination of natural preferments: our sour rye starter and a whole-wheat levain. The combination adds strength to the dough and complex flavors to the final loaf. The added acidity of the starter also enhances shelf life.
Test batch
The results are great! What you get is a hearty loaf, which is robust in flavor - complex, dark, and wholesome. The Pumpernickel will be available starting this Friday, November 13th and will run through the holiday season. Stop by your favorite Grand Central Bakery for a loaf!
Ingredients: water, flakey rye meal, whole-wheat flour, wheat flour, sour rye starter, whole-wheat levain, toasted rye bread, molasses, toasted caraway seed, salt and love
Posted by Mel Darbyshire, Grand Central Bakery Head Baker / Portland
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